Aren't you finished yet?
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Aren't you finished yet?
nearly there geth :p
But i am a little stuck - I pretty much have everything except the socket 1155 cpu and the water block for that socket.
If anyone has the brackets for that socket set, i would appreciate, because i could probably make a water block. and I should be able to afford the CPU in a week or two, but i would gladly pay for a second hand one if available. The water block is very scarce atm, hence wanting to make one - which i could most likely do out of a heat sink with the heat pipes that go to the fins. I would take the fins off, and then bend the heatpipes, join the odd ones in a circle and the in and out water pipes. just an idea, not sure if it would work but i am keen to try.
In the mean time I found a cheap water cooling kit (without any cpu brackets or blocks) - an old aquacool jetart, been on the shelf for ages and paid R350 for it. it comes in a nicely packaged external unit that was too big for my sundy. so i took it apart, and in the process broke the one fitting off the radiator block :0 which in the end wasnt a bad thing. because i have blocked that hole up and put new nipples facing the way i want them to face. BUT MAN OH MAN what a run around. not one single place could identify the threads from the fittings, nor could i find until today (3 days of searching) a place that could actually help me. I eventually went to the place that helped me with paintball co2 fittings 20 years ago. should have gone there first - he GAVE me a number of fittings and helped me with making one fit into another. so i have soldered the fittings on to the block, in the direction i need them to be going. you can see the radiator sitting in front of the sundy and the "shocks" for the front wheels in the first pick, and the soldered nozzles in the second pic.
I'm sure all the guys with connections can try to source a cheap 1155 cpu for my new rig.
Cheapest I have seen (assuming this rig is not designed for gaming?) is an i3 2120 for R1383.
Quad cores start around R2200.
i have seen some for less than R600 (pentiums) so i might end up going for that.
And for it to be yours you will need to pay :p
you are right though, I am not designing this for gaming. not enough time for sorting out stuff for GPU cooling weights etc.
you are a brave man my son.... making one's own CPU waterblock... that takes a lot of guts.... (or very few brain cells!)
May I make a suggestion, please test run your water block for a couple of hours before you put it onto the cpu! No offence, but doing welding / brazing / soldering to a degree that will ensure water thightness with water under pressure and a water block that heats up (thus expand, thus weakening the joints), is not something I am fully comfortable trying on my own rig just yet... Your soldering is obviously much better than mine... ;-) When you test it, try to heat up the waterblock as well, maybe just put it face down on the stove or something (please ensure wife is not witnessing this act of testing....) and then run the water through it.
Good luck, and post some more pictures please.
Ps, if you want to tap your own holes, then you will need a M3-0.5mm tap for the fine threaded screws (motherboard / dvd rom) and a M3-0.8mm tap for the HDD / PSU screws. Finding m3-0.5 is easy, but I have not been able to find m3-0.8, so if you can find one, get me one as well please.
yeah thanks skoups, I will definitely test out the whole system before actually having any serious electronics near it :-)
I spent Sunday afternoon making the block for the PSU. I still have to cut the bolts to the right size and then lap the heat sink after sealing the unit. (And then test it connected to the pump system.
I was looking for a heatsink that had rows of slots for plenty surface are heat transfer. so I took apart an old AGP GPU - thinking I was getting a copper heat sink - turns out it was aluminium, but hey, next time i will use copper.
The perspex turned out quite easy until the router guide slipped (hence the funny corner) but I am quite pleased with the end result - I might put more curves on it.
I might well kit myself out with more 'finer' tools, but I had an m4 tap and a gazzillion m4 countersunk and mushroom cap bolts. The m3 screws for the HDD and other hardware will have to be measured carefully :)
Right now i will be sticking to my angle grinder and hammer :p
Fly, I just had a close look at the CPU waterblock that you've made, just a couple of questions.
1. If I understand the pictures right, the water will effectively flow between the perspec that you have and the heatsink that is installed. That therefor means you will need to ensure that the perspex has a water tight seal over the heatsink?
2. if I understand the above design correctly, then if I could give you a tip, perhaps just squirt a tiny drop of clear silicon between the metal part of the heatsink and the perspex before you tighten it down (with the 8 bolts)
3. It looks like about 5mm perspex, meaning I estimate the inlet / outlet holes that you drilled is about 3mm, that basically gives you a 1mm perspex thickness on the sides, that is very thight margins if you will be pumping through heat (warping of perspex) and water under pressure. If the inlet / outlet holes are thinner, then I will be less concerned (but that then increases the pressure of the water)
4. Using wet / dry sand paper that is wet, will allow you to ensure you have a very smooth cutting surface on the perspex. I can recommend starting with 300 grit, and then work your way down to at least 1500 grit for a very smooth finish. (on the sides of the perspex). By the way, you could also try to use an orbital sander but I found that elbow-grease was the best. I have tried something else before, but it did not work well and that was to heat the crap out of the perspex (flames etc) to clear it off as per various you-tube videos, I just could not get the flame hot enough, perhaps you have better luck than me. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRCnVBM3R0c) Let me know if you could do what this guy does in the video, I could not. (yet)....
Fly, I think it is coming on nicely, keep it up, and keep sending us photos. (preferably some close ups and some big picture ones too....)
its 9 mm perspex, holes are 4.5 and 6 (6mm for the brass swage nipples) 1mm clearance on bottom, and 2mm on top for the brass tube that goes in to the perspex. more for the actual hole in the perspex.
I have already thought of the silicone for the aluminium heat sink sealing on to the perspex, i am not sure though if it will work well for the brass on to the aluminium - i was toying with the idea of proper perspex glue on first half of brass tube, and silicone on 2nd half.
I have seen the perspex dudes heating the edge with a very small blue flame, - I have a pencil torch, and will be finishing off the block with both a slightly different shape and chamfered edges. (which would be easier to sand and heat).
This afternoon I drilled the holes for the front scythe tubes in the top of the sundy, angling the drill (25mm) to get the right direction for the hole. (see pic).
The tubes are covered in masking tape to protect the finish.